I have always used whatever line I have usually 6-8lb on my rigging rods and then use swivel then my snell. My question is, does it really matter what your main line is on rigging rods when you have a swivel between that and your snell?
I did a little test for myself last year to see if it was worth it to spend the money on Vanish for my whole spool (not entire spool, I backed about the first 75 yards with mono) in comparison to what I usually do...Berkley XL Clear mono in #6 or #8 test.
I found that from a catching fish standpoint, it didn't matter. I feel I caught the same amount of fish with the Vanish mainline as I did with the Berkley mainline. However, the Vanish seemed to have more line twist issues than the Berkley mono did. Not sure if that's normal, or if it was the difference of the weights I used or what.
As a result, I am going back to a more cost effective solution of 6# and 8# test Berkley Mono Clear, and just use the Vanish for leader material.
I'd be interested to know if anyone else has run similar tests or switched and noticed any results!
I had a problem with Fireline twisting as well. It is very tough line but...It just is not a supple line to deal with or to fish with. It is not 'fisherman friendly' coming off the spool.
That's one opinion.
I went back to my normal Berkeley Mono and had far fewer issues in #6 or #8 mono filament. Berekely or Stren mono filaments for me: they do not twist and tangle off the spool and are much more supple to work and fish. I aslo like the flourscent blue or green colors for visability to the water surface -- and they have not adversely effected my walleye bite. That's my two cents worth...
I use 6lb vanish only on my 10' snell and mono on the rest. I found to prevent line twist is let all the line out of your spool with nothing on it behind the boat then drive about a 100yds and reel the line in i never get any line twists it really works well.
See ya all at Hunters on opener will be there Friday at noon till Monday.
I too would have issues with the vanish. I found the berkley professonal grade Floro to be a much better and easier handling line. Also keep in mind floro likes to sink so even for leader material it my not be the right choice in all situations.
Walleyebry NPAA #993
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"I'd rather have a fancy boat and a old truck, than a fancy truck and a old boat."
I use 6# mono. I tried PowerPro, Fireline, and fluorocarbon and ended up going back to what I started with. I use PowerPro for many other techniques, but I couldn't make it work for rigging.
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Humana Insurance Representative-Brainerd and Mille Lacs Area
The blue label Vanish is terrible line. I use the gold label or Gamma.
Hi Muskiemike,
Why is Vanish bad for you? That's all I have used, and I guess I haven't noticed something you have. If other florocarbons work differently than Vanish (I understand Vanish isn't 100% like the other two you mentioned), I'd be interested to know how they work different, and if they would affect my fishing differently. I am hesitant to use the lines you mentioned because of the cost in comparison to Vanish.
I use power pro with spinner rods and fireline with bait casting. I've had no twisting with the power pro and chose it for that reason.
I'm no expert ( not even close) but I believe with a swivel between you and the leader it is more important than ever to have a sensitive rod and a super line or a line that transmits as much as possible the bite back to you.
One thing that I would like to mention here is the time when I like to use fluorcarbon and when not to!!
I like to use fluocarbon early season when I'm fishing the sanding areas of the lake. When I'm not concerned about dragging the bottom. As fluorcarbon sinks in the water, while mono will float! besides the northend sand holds the fish pretty tight to the bottom in most cases!
And with that point made about mono floating! thats what I will tie my rigs up with when I'm out on the mud and not wanting to drag the bottom...I could say more about when this and that.....but a guide does have to keep a few tricks up his sleeve!!!
Now what about their use on a bobber while slip bobber fishing??? and thoughts there guys?
One thing that I would like to mention here is the time when I like to use fluorcarbon and when not to!!
I like to use fluocarbon early season when I'm fishing the sanding areas of the lake. When I'm not concerned about dragging the bottom. As fluorcarbon sinks in the water, while mono will float! besides the northend sand holds the fish pretty tight to the bottom in most cases!
And with that point made about mono floating! thats what I will tie my rigs up with when I'm out on the mud and not wanting to drag the bottom...I could say more about when this and that.....but a guide does have to keep a few tricks up his sleeve!!!
Now what about their use on a bobber while slip bobber fishing??? and thoughts there guys?
Bobber you can sare your guide secrets here with me. It will be just between you and me. Cross my heart and hope to watch Doug tie toe out to put Wanda's hair back on.
I don't recall it's name, but there is a new super line out this year that I believe is a cross between mono and fluorcarbon. I think they braided the two together. I think it's water neutral ( it's not heavier nor lighter than water ) won't snap like fluorcaban and still maintain super lines sensitivity. Someone here should know more about this line.
Thanks Bobber, that was avery good explanation on the different fluoro-carbon and monofilament line qualities. This means I buy you at least one cold one with Glen to go with the Mialmo Mike Wild Rice dish I am bringing. Too much FUN.
Wanda said 'Hello to Bobber'. She definitely wants a new hair do. Okay I made that part up.
The blue label Vanish is terrible line. I use the gold label or Gamma.
Hi Muskiemike,
Why is Vanish bad for you? That's all I have used, and I guess I haven't noticed something you have. If other florocarbons work differently than Vanish (I understand Vanish isn't 100% like the other two you mentioned), I'd be interested to know how they work different, and if they would affect my fishing differently. I am hesitant to use the lines you mentioned because of the cost in comparison to Vanish.
Thanks!
I have had very bad experiences with the Blue Label Vanish. The higher grade Vanish has performed just fine, but the Blue label found its way to the trash very quickly.
In my experience using it for multiple applications, it handles terrible, has awful knot strength and is not very abrasion resistant.
Also I do not spool the flourocarbon on my reels. I use it as leader material only. Be it rigs, spinners, cranks or bobber set ups.
-- Edited by muskiemike on Monday 18th of April 2011 06:51:46 AM
I don't do much rigging, but still can embrace the line issue just the same. IMHO floro on reels by itself has always seemed to be a twisty kind of thing. I had heard of it, but never experienced it until we were at Lac Suel the year before we started coming to ML. My fishing buddy needed line and wanted to try the Vanish (I use gold for leader material). He tore it off that night because of the twisting.
I bought PP 10/2 and started tying line to line leaders with the Vanish and loved the setup until I got snagged!!! Every time I broke off at the knot and I was using either a surgeon or back-to-back uni w/ 10# Vanish Gold... Then a couple of falls after that I broke off a fish and I looked in the box and found some 20# Seaguar floro from my FL trips redfishing. I tied the stuff on and have never had a problem with the 10/2 cutting through the line-to-line knot and I catch just as many fish as the other anglers in my boat. I use this setup and change the leader depending on the species and the relationship to the bottom/snaggy content between the 10# or 20# floro.
While working at the Musky Shop, one of the guys told me that I should not be having problems with that knot and suggested maybe using PP in a diameter more suited to the 10# diameter of the Vanish to prevent the line cutting, but I love the 10/2. I am thinking I would have to use PP 30# or so to get to the same floro diameter.
At any rate I use the above for just about everything except for low light conditions and I set one rod up with a high vis line and use Cortland green 6# or Stren yellow 6# for pitching at and just after dark or on the Miss R.
LOL
